admin
The realm of culinary arts often intersects with personal expression, and for many, food serves as a profound love language. This sentiment is particularly evident in the approach of acclaimed comedian, director, and self-proclaimed "food obsessive," Eric Wareheim. Through SAVEUR’s "Amused Bouche" series, Wareheim offers an intimate glimpse into his gastronomic world, revealing a meticulous dedication to crafting memorable dining experiences, whether for close friends, romantic partners, or even as a professional endeavor. His philosophy centers on going the "extra mile," a principle that underpins his approach to everything from elaborate home-cooked meals to ambitious pop-up restaurants.
Wareheim’s culinary repertoire is deeply rooted in dishes that require time and intention, reflecting his belief that the effort invested directly translates into the impact of the meal. Two such signature dishes are beef bourguignon and homemade pizza. The former, a classic French stew, is lauded for its requirement of an all-day simmer, a process Wareheim sees as an act of dedication. Similarly, his homemade pizza is a multi-day endeavor, culminating in a "wow factor" that has inspired his social circle to embrace the art of pizza-making, complete with personal pizza ovens. This communal aspect of food, where one person’s passion ignites others, highlights Wareheim’s ability to foster connection through shared culinary experiences. "I’m very intentional about who I am eating with, what they like, and what I want to show them," Wareheim states, emphasizing that his cooking is an act of curated generosity. "It’s really about going the extra mile."
The Steakhouse Pop-Up: Bringing Comfort and Class to Cities
Wareheim’s commitment to creating immersive dining experiences recently manifested in a series of "Eric Wareheim’s Steak House" pop-ups held at Thompson Hotels in Dallas, Denver, and Savannah, Georgia. This initiative was intrinsically linked to the launch of his latest book, a project that aimed to translate his personal culinary ethos into a tangible, accessible format. For these pop-ups, Wareheim collaborated with the executive chefs at each hotel. The directive was clear: to select dishes from his book that resonated with them and to infuse these recipes with their own unique culinary voices. "He had the chef at each restaurant ‘pick their favorites from the book… some took the base recipes and made them their own with little tweaks,’" the article notes, underscoring a collaborative spirit that prioritized both fidelity to the source material and the chefs’ individual creativity.
The steakhouse concept itself was deliberately chosen for its inherent qualities of comfort, luxury, and celebration. Wareheim articulates this vision: "The whole point of a steakhouse is comfort. Dimly lit, leather booths, everyone is in tuxedos, and it’s comfortable, cool, classy, and celebratory. I wanted to bring that energy and vibe everywhere, along with really great food." This approach suggests an understanding of how ambiance and presentation can elevate the dining experience beyond the mere consumption of food, transforming it into a multi-sensory event. The pop-ups, therefore, served not only as a promotional vehicle for his book but also as a testament to his ability to translate a specific, aspirational dining atmosphere into diverse locations.
Mastering the Art of the Home Steakhouse Dinner
During his Savannah engagement, Wareheim shared insights into transforming a home kitchen into a steakhouse-worthy setting for a romantic evening. His core advice for a date night at home revolves around the principle of mastering a key element: cooking a piece of meat perfectly. "Everyone should know how to cook a piece of meat properly—that’s a very loving thing to give your date," he asserts. This simple yet profound act, he believes, is a significant gesture of affection.
Crucial to executing such a meal without stress is meticulous planning and time management. Wareheim stresses the importance of completing all preparatory tasks, including mise en place, the day before the event. "As I get older, I need all the energy I can get; I don’t need to be drinking Red Bull before dinner!" he humorously admits, highlighting the value of efficiency in preserving energy for hosting and enjoyment.
The dessert course, he suggests, can be a delightful shortcut. Wareheim advocates for purchasing a quality cheesecake and elevating it with personal touches like Kinder chocolates, fresh berries, or jarred sour cherries, a strategy that balances convenience with a homemade feel. For the main course, the focus remains on quality ingredients and skillful execution. "If you get a great piece of meat, you don’t have to do anything; just salt and pepper and cook it right," he advises, reinforcing the idea that simplicity can be profoundly impactful. Accompanying the protein should be classic elements: a wedge salad, a simple side dish such as glazed carrots, and a thoughtfully selected, decanted bottle of wine. The finishing touches, he believes, are key to creating a romantic ambiance. A handwritten menu, perhaps heart-shaped, and dripless candles contribute to the overall polished and intimate setting. "I’m a romantic like that," Wareheim concludes, underscoring the emotional dimension he imbues in his culinary endeavors.
Wareheim’s Culinary Pantheon: Favorite Flavors and Childhood Memories
In a candid exploration of his personal tastes and culinary journey, Wareheim reveals a diverse palate and a deep connection to comfort foods. When pressed about a hypothetical scenario of eating only one thing perpetually, his immediate answer is a well-executed chicken schnitzel, accompanied by a generous lemon wedge, new potatoes, and broccolini for balance. This choice is deeply personal, evoking memories of his German mother and her schnitzel, a dish that holds a significant place in his first cookbook, Foodheim. He also expresses a strong affinity for fried chicken, identifying a specific piece from Babe’s Chicken Dinner House in Dallas and a particular cut of chutoro from Sawada in Tokyo as his ultimate "death meal" choices. These selections underscore a preference for dishes that are both comforting and refined, showcasing a breadth of culinary appreciation.
His earliest cooking memories are tinged with humor and a touch of culinary experimentation from his mother. He recalls a unique "taco salad" created by his mother, which involved Doritos, French dressing, and olives—a dish that, despite its unconventional ingredients, became a cherished comfort food during his college years. The absence of a formal recipe for this dish taught him a valuable lesson about intuitive cooking, moving from precise measurements to a more flexible, experimental approach. This formative experience highlights the evolution of his culinary understanding, from seeking exactitude to embracing creativity. Wareheim notes that while he and his mother may not always align on artistic pursuits, their shared love for good food serves as a strong bonding element.
His latest kitchen exploration involves a renewed appreciation for Greek sour cherries, which he enjoys in various forms, including a simple yet satisfying combination with yogurt, flaky salt, and olive oil. For moments of self-indulgence, Wareheim turns to FatBoy ice cream sandwiches, particularly the smaller "Junior" versions, admitting to sometimes consuming multiple to satisfy a craving. He also highlights the "cake pops" as a particularly decadent treat.
Influences and Lessons from the Culinary Masters
Wareheim’s approach to cooking is informed by a curated selection of influential cookbooks. The El Bulli cookbook serves as a primary source of visual inspiration, particularly for his work as a plant artist, demonstrating the cross-pollination of creative disciplines. For practical culinary techniques, J. Kenji López-Alt’s The Food Lab is his go-to resource. He credits the book with imparting fundamental skills that he now integrates into his cooking, such as efficient garlic preparation, precise hard-boiled egg techniques, and the nuanced methods for building flavor in beef stew and finishing pan sauces. These "simple little tricks" have become foundational elements in his broader recipe development.
Despite his culinary expertise, Wareheim is not immune to kitchen mishaps. He recounts a memorable disaster involving homemade tortillas and a tortilla press, a venture that ended in failure due to an overly wet masa. This experience led him to temporarily rely on store-bought tortillas, acknowledging the ease of finding quality options in his Los Angeles home. However, he remains open to revisiting the challenge, emphasizing the importance of confidence and the willingness to "f***ing try it" and learn from mistakes. This perspective underscores a pragmatic and resilient attitude towards culinary experimentation.
Nostalgic childhood foods continue to play a significant role in his comfort. While his mother kept processed foods to a minimum, occasional indulgences like Nutella, Triscuits, and Cinnamon Toast Crunch hold a special place. His current habit of eating Cinnamon Toast Crunch with half-and-half as a dessert exemplifies a playful embrace of childhood pleasures. He also humorously recalls consuming shots of A1 sauce as a child, a testament to his early appreciation for bold flavors and "explosions" of taste.
The Art of Hosting: Music, Presentation, and Unforgettable Meals
Wareheim’s approach to hosting extends to curating the perfect soundtrack for various occasions. His extensive playlist collection includes specific selections for dinner parties, guest arrivals, and pizza-making sessions. He notes his preference for Italian disco when cooking bolognese and more traditional Italian-American or Sopranos-esque soundtracks when preparing a classic red sauce. This attention to musical ambiance demonstrates a holistic approach to creating a welcoming and engaging atmosphere for his guests.
His ultimate "entertaining flex" lies in the meticulous attention to detail. Wareheim describes polishing four kinds of glasses for parties, ensuring that each beverage, such as amaro, is served in an appropriate vessel, presented on a vintage tray. He also emphasizes the simple yet significant act of warming bread for a cheese platter, believing that these "little things and extra steps" transform each element into an experience. This commitment to elevating the ordinary into the extraordinary is a hallmark of his hosting philosophy.
Perhaps the most vivid illustration of Wareheim’s dedication to culinary excellence is his description of a meal so profound it elicited an emotional response akin to collective crying. This experience occurred at Sawada in Tokyo, a restaurant renowned for its intimate setting and the husband-and-wife team at its helm. The use of slow-burning embers and impeccable ventilation creates a unique sensory environment. The final course, a piece of chutoro, is seared tableside over coals, imparting a subtle caramelization that Wareheim describes as "so f***ing nuts." The experience is further enhanced by the restaurant’s tradition of presenting each guest with a hand-painted napkin to take home. The profound impact of this meal, leaving the diners "tearing up" on the street, underscores Wareheim’s belief that food, when executed with passion and precision, can transcend mere sustenance to become a deeply moving and unforgettable event. This level of culinary artistry and emotional resonance is what Wareheim consistently strives to achieve in his own endeavors, both personal and professional.
