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The rhythmic tumble of seaweed in a massive tank of cold, bubbling water is the soundtrack to Dr. Michael Graham’s work. As a phycologist, a scientist dedicated to the study of algae, Graham’s hands are often submerged, not just in scientific inquiry, but in the very substance of his research. He reaches into the tank, plucks a ribbon of dulse, a vibrant reddish-purple variety, and samples it directly. Next, he retrieves a handful of "sea grapes" from a neighboring basin. These tiny green orbs, resembling miniature fruit, offer a delightful burst of briny water upon tasting. This immersive experience, tasting seaweed at its source, is a rare privilege, akin to biting into an apple directly from an orchard.
Graham’s operation, Monterey Bay Seaweeds, is a testament to the simplicity and potential of macroalgae cultivation. Located a stone’s throw from the shore in Moss Landing, California, his farm consists of rows of open-air basins that thrive on little more than sunlight and the abundant ocean water. The seaweed harvested here embarks on a culinary journey, finding its way into savory dishes, baked goods, and even cocktails served in restaurants across the nation. However, Graham is quick to emphasize that the appeal of cultivating edible seaweed extends far beyond gastronomy.
The Ecological Imperative: Seaweed as a Climate Solution
Beyond its culinary applications, seaweed cultivation presents a compelling ecological advantage. As these marine plants grow, they actively absorb excess carbon dioxide and nitrogen from the ocean. These are the very elements that have accumulated in marine environments due to fossil-fuel emissions and agricultural runoff, contributing to ocean acidification and dead zones. The fact that seaweed cultivation requires no freshwater and no synthetic fertilizers further solidifies its position as an ecologically efficient and sustainable crop. This inherent environmental benefit is increasingly driving interest and investment in the burgeoning U.S. seaweed industry, particularly as climate change continues to impact traditional food systems.
A Nascent Industry in the United States
Monterey Bay Seaweeds is among a select group of farms in the United States that directly supply fresh, culinary-grade seaweed to consumers. While the global commercial seaweed market is projected for significant expansion in the coming years, domestic cultivation remains a nascent industry when compared to the established aquaculture giants of Asia, which overwhelmingly dominate the world’s seaweed production.
The American food industry, grappling with the disruptive effects of climate change, is witnessing a growing appreciation for the environmental, nutritional, and economic potential of macroalgae. Seaweed’s capacity to absorb carbon dioxide through photosynthesis means that well-managed seaweed farms can actively contribute to mitigating local ocean acidification. This process is crucial for the survival of marine life sensitive to changes in water chemistry, including coral reefs, mollusks, and crustaceans. As cultivators pioneer new farming ventures along both U.S. coasts, the industry is focused on not only scaling production but also on cultivating demand in a population largely unfamiliar with consuming algae.
Navigating the Complexities of Seaweed Farming
Establishing a seaweed farm is far from a simple endeavor. In states like California and Washington, obtaining permits for offshore cultivation in state waters is a complex and often costly process. Aspiring seaweed farmers also face challenges in sourcing high-quality seeds, navigating the unpredictable nature of the ocean, and developing best practices for low-impact, ecologically beneficial operations.
Bren Smith, a pioneer in the field, transitioned to seaweed farming after becoming disillusioned with the destructive environmental impacts of commercial fishing, an industry he was once a part of. His efforts to share his knowledge led to the creation of a training program that saw an overwhelming response, highlighting the urgent need for guidance within the nascent industry. This grassroots initiative evolved into GreenWave, a nonprofit organization dedicated to providing training and resources to ocean farmers across North America. GreenWave champions regenerative farming through polyculture models, which synergistically pair seaweed and shellfish cultivation.
Polyculture: A Symbiotic Approach to Marine Farming
The power of polyculture in seaweed farming is its ability to create positive environmental feedback loops that benefit surrounding marine ecosystems. Charles Yarish, GreenWave’s chief scientist and a researcher at the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, explains the direct link between ocean acidification and shellfish health. "With ocean acidification, poor shellfish can’t produce as much calcium carbonate, and their shells become thinner and weaker," he states.
By strategically integrating macroalgae cultivation with shellfish farming, these polyculture systems can significantly improve the ecological balance of marine environments. As seaweed photosynthesizes, it helps to increase the pH of the surrounding waters, creating more favorable conditions for local shellfish to develop thicker, stronger shells. In turn, shellfish consume phytoplankton that compete with seaweed for essential nutrients, as noted by Markos Scheer, founder and CEO of Seagrove Alaska, a Juneau-based ocean farm.
Economic Resilience for Coastal Communities
Beyond ecological benefits, polyculture setups are crucial for the sustainable growth of the seaweed sector, both environmentally and economically. Kelly McGlinchey, founder of the food sustainability consultancy Table & Tilth, emphasizes the intertwined nature of the emerging seaweed industry and the challenges faced by declining fisheries. "Concurrent to the story of an emerging seaweed industry is the story of fisheries in decline, and threatened livelihoods," she observes.
In regions like the Gulf of Maine, rising ocean temperatures are forcing lobsters to migrate further offshore, leading to declining populations. Seaweed farming offers a vital opportunity to create an additional income stream for fishers, leveraging their existing gear and expertise. Bren Smith articulates this vision: "I want to die on my boat one day, and everyone I know and hang out with wants to die on their boats one day. How do we take all of our skills, our culture, our entire identities, move them over into this climate-solution space, and tap into that blue-collar innovation?"
Lowering Barriers to Entry: A Key to Scalability
To foster widespread adoption, reducing the barriers to entry for aspiring seaweed farmers is a critical first step. In Maine, the food manufacturer Atlantic Sea Farms is actively supporting lobstermen by providing seeds and technical assistance, enabling them to integrate seaweed cultivation into their existing operations. Briana Warner, founder and former CEO of Atlantic Sea Farms, highlights the intuitive nature of this transition for many lobstermen. "I [didn’t] have to teach anyone how to tie a knot," she remarks.
Furthermore, the primary seaweed species cultivated in Maine, sugar kelp, is typically harvested in April or May, a period that generally does not conflict with the busy summer and fall lobster season. Atlantic Sea Farms then transforms the harvested kelp into a range of value-added products, including kelp powder, smoothie starters, and seasoned seaweed salads. "Seaweed isn’t going to replace lobster," Warner acknowledges, "but it is still a meaningful step toward building the community’s economic resilience in the face of climate uncertainties."
The Critical Role of Processing and Market Development
A significant aspect of the appeal of Atlantic Sea Farms’ model lies in its handling of processing. McGlinchey points out the vulnerability of kelp to decay once harvested, underscoring the necessity of infrastructure for drying, blanching, or freezing to unlock higher-volume distribution channels. "You don’t want to be in the business of selling raw kelp," Smith adds. "It has no shelf life, and you’re going to flood the market with a quarter-million pounds off your farm in a two-week period." Industry advocates like Smith and McGlinchey stress that innovative processing solutions, such as revitalizing underutilized waterfront facilities or developing cutting-edge methods for stabilizing kelp at room temperature, could be transformative for the industry.
Even with scaled production, the long-term success of the seaweed industry hinges on market demand. Markos Scheer notes that the current production capacity in regions like Alaska is significantly underutilized due to a lack of a robust culinary market. "We haven’t been able to build that market demand as quickly as the capacity for production has increased," he states.
Bridging the Culinary Divide: From Novelty to Staple
Despite its rapid growth cycles and significant potential for climate-positive impacts, seaweed has yet to fully penetrate mainstream American dining culture. "It’s been an uphill journey for sure, and it continues to be," Scheer admits. To overcome this hurdle, growers and producers are actively working to cultivate consumer interest in algae, a considerable challenge given the need to fundamentally shift American perceptions of this sea vegetable.
"We often handle seaweed as if it’s this artisanal thing, but if we’re going to make an impact, we need this to be in every aisle of the grocery store," says Briana Warner. For many Americans, seaweed remains an unfamiliar ingredient, often relegated to the realm of "something you pick off the beach" or a sophisticated garnish on an experimental chef’s tasting menu. The recent film The Menu, a satirical dark comedy about ultra-fine dining, featured seaweed in a dramatic presentation, a visual that resonated with Dr. Graham, who noted its uncanny resemblance to how some of his restaurant clients might present his product. While the silver screen exposure was exciting, Graham emphasizes that seaweed’s culinary potential extends far beyond mere aesthetic appeal; it should be treated "like a vegetable." He suggests versatile applications, such as incorporating sea lettuce into smoothies or dulse into salads.
Global Culinary Traditions and American Palates
Historically, numerous cultures, including Japanese, Irish, and Indigenous American communities, have long embraced seaweed as a food source. Candice Choi, founder of the seaweed snack brand Geem, draws inspiration from her Korean heritage to develop products that appeal to American snackers. "I think America in particular is very crunch-obsessed, me included," Choi observes. By combining traditional Korean pantry staples with crispy rice and sesame seeds, she has created crunchy chips seasoned with gochugaru and tamari, celebrating her heritage while adapting the ocean green for U.S. palates.
To meet consumers where they are, food producers are introducing seaweed in familiar contexts, highlighting its unique strengths, such as its oceanic savoriness and natural thickening properties. North Coast Seafoods offers a kelp-based burger that blends New England seaweed with chickpeas and brown rice. Barnacle Foods, based in Alaska, incorporates kelp into salsas and hot sauces, adding depth and umami. Maine Coast Sea Vegetables crafts crunchy, salty-sweet sesame bars by combining kelp with sesame seeds, brown rice syrup, and maple syrup.
Innovation and Consumer Acceptance
Anoushka Concepcion, chair of the Global Seaweed Coalition’s strategic advisory council, stresses the importance of "all kinds of innovative product development." New food creations provide the industry with valuable insights into consumer preferences, whether for kelp noodles or seaweed-seasoned chocolate bars. Ultimately, consumers will not purchase food products solely for their environmental benefits. "We’re so jaded by all the greenwashing that’s happened in the last 10, 20 years," Choi notes, suggesting that sustainability is often a secondary consideration after taste has been confirmed.
The Culinary Frontier: Chefs as Trendsetters
Chefs play a pivotal role in shifting public perception of seaweed, acting as trendsetters who can experiment with and normalize new foods. In Monterey County, local chefs are enthusiastic proponents of Graham’s seaweed, incorporating it into a diverse array of sweet and savory dishes. Chef-owner Klaus Georis of Maligne has featured various seaweed varieties in his take on chawanmushi, a Japanese steamed egg custard. At Coastal Kitchen in the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa, chefs Michael Rotondo and Lisa Baty have incorporated nori and kombu into a sablé Breton, topping the sweet-salty shortbread with panna cotta and a vibrant kelp oil drizzle. Joshua Perry, a mixologist at Cella Restaurant & Bar, has crafted an oceanic cocktail featuring cucumber-kombu dashi and a sea-grape garnish, designed to evoke a sensory experience of the sea. By showcasing seaweed in unexpected ways, restaurants can spark curiosity and push the boundaries of its culinary potential. "Once people become familiar with something, they’re much more open-minded to it," Georis observes.
Educating the Palate: Unlocking Seaweed’s Versatility
Making seaweed a mainstream ingredient requires not only widespread exposure but also educating cooks on how to harness its versatility. Susan Jung, a cookbook author and food columnist for Vogue Hong Kong, highlights seaweed’s ability to absorb flavors while imparting its own distinct umami. She suggests toasting and shredding dried seaweed sheets to sprinkle over rice or soups, or using kombu to create dashi, a foundational Japanese stock for dishes like ramen and sukiyaki. The spent kombu can be seasoned and transformed into a popular side dish in Japan. Seaweed’s savory and briny notes can enhance a wide range of dishes, from creamy pasta to pesto.
A Spectrum of Flavors and Textures
The diverse array of seaweed varieties offers a rich tapestry of textures and flavors. Varieties like the North Pacific giant kelp can be transformed into hearty lasagna noodles, as seen at Eternal Abundance Organic Market & Eatery in Vancouver. Graham’s wife and business partner, chef Erica Graham, notes that frying dulse can yield a surprisingly bacon-like flavor. "Sea truffle" offers an uncanny evocation of its namesake fungus, at a fraction of the cost. Nutritionally, seaweed is a valuable source of fiber, protein, and essential minerals such as iodine, potassium, and magnesium, depending on the species.
Collaborative Growth and Future Prospects
Markos Scheer acknowledges the inherent tension in simultaneously developing a market and scaling production, likening it to "building a car while driving it." This challenge is driving growers to collaborate, not only to increase output but also to ensure a consistent supply and expand the crop’s reach. In the bays around Long Island, women from the Shinnecock Indian Nation have formed Shinnecock Kelp Farmers, a nonprofit organization working with GreenWave and the Sisters of St. Joseph to establish their own kelp hatchery and farm, thereby reinforcing their community’s historical role in stewarding marine resources. The Maine Family Sea Farm Cooperative, also supported by GreenWave, unites multiple polyculture farms in Casco Bay, enabling resource sharing, pooled equipment funds, and mutual support during worker shortages. These nationwide efforts are laying the groundwork for the stable, predictable supply chain essential for seaweed to secure a lasting presence in grocery stores, restaurants, and home kitchens.
While seaweed as an ingredient is ancient, its cultivation as an American crop is still in its nascent stages. Anoushka Concepcion notes that different U.S. regions are suited to specific seaweed species, and it will take time for farmers to identify the most marketable products and consumer reception. Land-based farms, such as Monterey Bay Seaweeds, allow for daily harvesting and precise environmental control, catering to chefs seeking the freshest options. Conversely, ocean farms typically have lower operating costs and produce larger batches less frequently, meeting the volume demands of packaged food companies. Ultimately, the industry requires a diverse range of farm types to satisfy varied market needs. "The bigger the scale, the lower the cost and the more access people will have," Dr. Graham concludes. "I think that’s when everything’s going to change."
