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In an era where the fine-dining landscape is increasingly defined by inclusivity and health-conscious consumption, SHĀO has announced a significant expansion of its beverage program with the debut of a meticulously crafted eight-drink zero-proof pairing. This new offering was developed specifically to complement Shōjin, the restaurant’s recently launched plant-based omakase menu. Spearheaded by Bar Director Pepe Pereyra, the beverage progression seeks to move beyond the traditional "mocktail" paradigm, instead adopting the ritual, structure, and sensory complexity typically reserved for high-end wine service.
The initiative comes at a time when the global non-alcoholic (NA) beverage market is experiencing unprecedented growth. Industry analysts report that the NA category has surpassed $11 billion in market value, driven by a shift in consumer behavior toward "sober curiosity" and moderate consumption. By integrating a sophisticated spirit-free journey into its flagship vegan experience, SHĀO positions itself at the forefront of a culinary movement that treats non-alcoholic pairings not as an afterthought, but as a critical component of the gastronomic narrative.
A Philosophy of Fluidity and Structure
The Shōjin pairing is the result of an intensive collaboration between Bar Director Pepe Pereyra and Executive Chef Mari Katsumura. While Chef Katsumura’s menu draws inspiration from Shōjin Ryōri—the traditional Buddhist temple cuisine of Japan known for its focus on seasonality and soybean-based proteins—Pereyra’s beverage program focuses on the structural mechanics of wine.
Rather than relying on the sugary profiles often associated with juice-based pairings, Pereyra focused on how a beverage behaves on the palate. The objective was to recreate the specific roles that acidity, tannins, aromatics, and texture play when interacting with complex plant-based dishes. This approach ensures that the drinks do not merely wash down the food but actively enhance the nuances of the ingredients, from the earthiness of root vegetables to the delicate umami of fermented broths.
“Just as working without traditional proteins opened new creative possibilities for Chef Mari, working without alcohol pushed me to think differently about every glass,” Pereyra noted during the program’s development. He emphasized that the goal was to "chase the way wine moves with food," ensuring each pour carries a finish that bridges the gap between courses.
The Science of the Pour: Vacuum Distillation and Culinary Integration
At the core of the Shōjin beverage program is a selection of non-alcoholic wines from Oddbird, a Swedish producer specializing in "liberated" wines. Unlike many NA products that are essentially unfermented grape juice, Oddbird wines undergo a traditional vinification process. Once the wine has reached its full potential, the alcohol is gently removed through a process known as vacuum distillation.
Vacuum distillation allows the alcohol to evaporate at a significantly lower temperature than standard boiling, which prevents the "cooked" flavors that often plague non-alcoholic wine alternatives. By preserving the delicate esters and volatile compounds of the original Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Riesling grapes, Pereyra starts with a base that possesses the genuine structure of fermented wine.
From this foundation, Pereyra layers in a variety of house-made components and culinary staples. The program utilizes:
- Organic Shrubs and Verjus: To provide the necessary acid backbone that stimulates the appetite.
- Teas and Infusions: To introduce tannins and complex floral or smoky notes.
- Kitchen Staples: Ingredients such as red miso syrup, strawberry vinegar, and fresh citrus are borrowed directly from Chef Katsumura’s pantry to create a seamless flavor bridge between the plate and the glass.
The Shōjin Progression: A Course-by-Course Analysis
The eight-drink journey is designed to be served off-ice in premium stemware, encouraging guests to swirl and nose the drinks as they would a vintage Burgundy or a crisp Sake. The progression begins with bright, effervescent notes to awaken the palate and moves toward deeper, more savory profiles as the meal reaches its crescendo.
The experience opens with an alcohol-removed Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blend. This initial pour is enhanced with Mallorca melon, watermelon, and a touch of saline to pair with the opening canapés. The salinity serves to sharpen the fruit notes while mirroring the oceanic qualities often found in Japanese appetizers.
As the menu transitions into warmer, more substantial dishes, the beverage profiles follow suit. A notable highlight in the progression is the pairing for the hot somen. This course is accompanied by a Tempranillo-based pour that has been accented with a red cabbage shrub and yuzu. The earthy, vegetal notes of the cabbage shrub provide a savory depth that anchors the brightness of the yuzu, creating a sophisticated counterpoint to the delicate noodles and dashi.
Other elements of the progression utilize sparkling orange wine and Riesling-Sylvaner white blends, each modified with ingredients like strawberry vinegar to provide a sharp, clean finish that prepares the palate for the next bite.
Leadership and Culinary Pedigree
The success of SHĀO’s beverage program is rooted in the diverse backgrounds of its leadership team. Bar Director Pepe Pereyra brings a unique "kitchen-first" perspective to the bar. Having spent the early years of his career cooking in Chinese and Japanese restaurants across Colorado and Texas, Pereyra views ingredients through a culinary lens. His experience in Chicago’s elite bar scene—including roles at the Cherry Circle Room and the intimate, spirit-forward Milk Room—has allowed him to master the technical aspects of mixology while maintaining a chef’s sensibility for flavor balance.
Complementing Pereyra is General Manager and Sommelier Preston Smith, whose unconventional path to hospitality informs the restaurant’s service philosophy. A former professional performer with a Master of Arts in Musical Theatre, Smith approaches a night of service like a choreographed production. His focus on pacing and storytelling ensures that the beverage pairings—whether wine, sake, or zero-proof—are presented with a narrative that resonates with the guest.
Smith, a Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas, oversees the broader beverage program, which includes a "Platinum Pairing" that integrates rare wines and sakes. His commitment to sourcing from small producers and female-led breweries and wineries adds a layer of social consciousness to the restaurant’s operations.
Broader Industry Implications and Market Context
The introduction of the Shōjin pairing reflects a broader trend in the global hospitality industry where "inclusive hospitality" is becoming a standard rather than a niche offering. According to recent data from the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS) and various consumer insight groups, younger demographics—particularly Millennials and Gen Z—are consuming less alcohol than previous generations but are willing to spend more on high-quality, artisanal non-alcoholic experiences.
For fine-dining establishments like SHĀO, providing a high-level NA pairing is a strategic move to capture this growing market segment. It addresses a common pain point in the industry: the "water or soda" dilemma for non-drinkers, which often results in a diminished experience for the guest and lost revenue for the house. By pricing and presenting the zero-proof pairing with the same rigor as the wine program, SHĀO ensures that every guest, regardless of their alcohol consumption, receives a complete and intentional dining experience.
Furthermore, the focus on plant-based omakase aligns with the increasing demand for sustainable dining. The Shōjin menu’s reliance on seasonal produce and traditional Japanese techniques offers a lower carbon footprint compared to traditional meat-heavy tasting menus, while the zero-proof pairing complements this "clean" ethos.
Conclusion: Setting a New Standard for Pairings
SHĀO’s eight-drink zero-proof pairing represents a maturation of the non-alcoholic movement. By moving away from the "mocktail" and toward a "wine-logic" framework, the restaurant has created a beverage journey that respects the complexity of Chef Mari Katsumura’s cooking.
The program demonstrates that the absence of alcohol does not necessitate the absence of sophistication. Through the use of vacuum-distilled wines, kitchen-sourced ingredients, and a rigorous attention to the mechanics of the palate, SHĀO has established a new benchmark for how restaurants can engage with the modern diner. As the hospitality industry continues to evolve, the integration of high-concept, zero-proof options like the Shōjin pairing is likely to become an essential hallmark of the world’s most forward-thinking dining rooms.
