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This is Amused Bouche, SAVEUR’s food questionnaire that explores the culinary curiosities of some of our favorite people. This interview series dives deep into their food routines, including dinner party strategies, cherished cookbooks, and the memorable bites they’d hop on a flight for.
Eric Wareheim, a multifaceted artist known for his work in comedy and visual arts, approaches food with an intensity and thoughtfulness that mirrors his creative process. His culinary philosophy is deeply rooted in the act of sharing and the profound connection that can be forged through well-prepared meals. Wareheim views cooking as an ultimate love language, a way to express care and intention towards friends and loved ones. This dedication is evident in his go-to dishes, beef bourguignon and homemade pizza. The former, a labor of love requiring all-day simmering, is a testament to his patience and commitment to deep flavor development. The latter, a multi-day endeavor, offers a significant "wow factor," transforming gatherings into communal culinary learning experiences where friends have become enthusiastic home pizzaiolos, investing in their own pizza ovens to share the joy. "I’m very intentional about who I am eating with, what they like, and what I want to show them," Wareheim states. "It’s really about going the extra mile." This ethos underscores his belief that food is not merely sustenance but a deliberate act of generosity and connection.
From Pop-Up to Palate: The Steak House Experience
To translate his passion for a specific dining experience into tangible reality, Wareheim conceptualized and executed the "Eric Wareheim’s Steak House" pop-up events. These highly anticipated, limited-engagement affairs took place at three distinct Thompson Hotels across Dallas, Denver, and Savannah, Georgia. The strategy behind these events was collaborative, inviting the executive chefs of each participating hotel to engage directly with Wareheim’s culinary vision.
"He had the chef at each restaurant ‘pick their favorites from the book…some took the base recipes and made them their own with little tweaks.’" This approach allowed for a fusion of Wareheim’s signature style with the individual expertise and preferences of each chef. By empowering the chefs to interpret and adapt his recipes, Wareheim ensured that each pop-up was a unique and ephemeral event. The very essence of a steakhouse, Wareheim explains, lies in its inherent comfort and celebratory atmosphere. "The whole point of a steakhouse is comfort. Dimly lit, leather booths, everyone is in tuxedos, and it’s comfortable, cool, classy, and celebratory," he elaborates. "I wanted to bring that energy and vibe everywhere, along with really great food." The success of these pop-ups highlights a growing trend in the hospitality industry: the creation of immersive, experiential dining moments that transcend mere consumption and offer a holistic sensory and emotional engagement.
Mastering the Art of the Romantic Meal
During a personal conversation at his Savannah dinner event, Wareheim shared insights into transforming a home kitchen into a sophisticated steakhouse setting for a romantic date night. His advice centers on mastering fundamental cooking techniques and meticulous preparation. "Everyone should know how to cook a piece of meat properly—that’s a very loving thing to give your date," he asserts.
Crucially, Wareheim emphasizes the importance of time management, advocating for thorough preparation in advance. "Get all your prep done, even do your mise en place the day before," he advises. "As I get older, I need all the energy I can get; I don’t need to be drinking Red Bull before dinner!" This pragmatic approach ensures that the actual cooking and assembly process becomes seamless and enjoyable, rather than stressful.
For the dessert course, Wareheim embraces a delightful blend of convenience and personal touch. He opts for store-bought cheesecakes, which he then elevates with additions like Kinder chocolates, fresh berries, or jarred sour cherries, demonstrating that even simple elements can be imbued with a personal flair.
The star of the meal, he suggests, is a perfectly cooked piece of meat. "If you get a great piece of meat, you don’t have to do anything; just salt and pepper and cook it right," Wareheim explains. He champions classic accompaniments, recommending a wedge salad and a single, complementary side dish like glazed carrots. The selection of a special, decanted bottle of wine further elevates the dining experience, creating a harmonious pairing. Adding a thoughtful, hand-written menu and elegant, dripless candles contribute to the romantic ambiance. "I’m a romantic like that," he concludes, underscoring his commitment to creating memorable and intimate dining occasions.
A Culinary Odyssey: Wareheim’s Personal Preferences and Inspirations
The Ultimate Sustenance: A Year-Round Indulgence
When faced with the hypothetical scenario of eating only one dish for the rest of his life, Wareheim’s choice is a deeply personal and comforting one: chicken schnitzel. He envisions it served with a generous wedge of lemon, new potatoes, and, for a touch of health consciousness, broccolini. This selection is directly linked to his German heritage, evoking memories of his mother’s cooking. "My mom is German, and even though schnitzel is Austrian, it’s her schnitzel I’m thinking of," he shares. He has even featured this dish in his first cookbook, Foodheim. Alternatively, he expresses a strong affinity for fried chicken in general. His ultimate "death meal" comprises a piece of fried chicken from Babe’s Chicken Dinner House in Dallas and a piece of chutoro from Sawada in Tokyo, highlighting a sophisticated palate that appreciates both comforting classics and exquisite, specific culinary experiences.
Genesis in the Kitchen: The First Culinary Endeavors
Wareheim’s early forays into cooking were influenced by his mother, a skilled cook who, in an attempt to embrace American culture, created a rather unconventional taco salad for him during his college years. This dish, a whimsical concoction of Doritos, French dressing, and olives, served with faux crumbled meat for his vegetarian diet, became a surprising comfort food. "It was so not her, but it was so yummy," he recalls. The lack of a formal recipe for this creation marked a pivotal moment in his understanding of cooking. He learned that culinary success doesn’t always hinge on precise measurements but on intuition and the willingness to experiment. This realization allowed him to connect with his mother on a deeper level, bridging gaps in their shared interests through the universal language of good food.
Recent Culinary Explorations: The Versatility of Sour Cherries
Wareheim’s current kitchen adventures are focused on the vibrant and versatile Greek sour cherry. He has been actively exploring new ways to incorporate this ingredient into his daily meals. His current favorite is a simple yet elegant combination of yogurt, sour cherries, a sprinkle of flaky salt, and a drizzle of olive oil, showcasing his appreciation for balanced flavors and fresh ingredients.
The Indulgent Pause: A Treat-Yourself Moment
For moments of self-indulgence, Wareheim turns to the nostalgic comfort of FatBoy ice cream sandwiches. He admits to a particular fondness for the original square-shaped sandwiches, but also for their smaller "Junior" counterparts. He humorously notes that while attempting to be healthier by opting for the smaller size, he often ends up consuming two. His ultimate guilty pleasure lies in the new FatBoy Junior cake pops, which he describes as "so silly, really dense, and just good."
Treasured Tomes: Cookbooks as Inspiration and Instruction
Wareheim’s cookbook collection serves a dual purpose, acting as both a source of visual inspiration and practical culinary guidance. The El Bulli cookbook is a primary resource for artistic and aesthetic inspiration, particularly relevant to his work as a plant artist. For practical application and technical mastery, he relies heavily on J. Kenji López-Alt’s The Food Lab. This comprehensive guide has become his go-to for refining fundamental techniques, from preparing garlic and eggs to executing complex pan sauces. He highlights specific techniques he’s integrated into his cooking, such as the addition of anchovies, Worcestershire sauce, and tomato paste to beef stew, and the precise methods for achieving perfectly cooked eggs and refined pan sauces. These "simple little tricks" have become indispensable elements in his diverse recipe repertoire.
The Culinary Comeback: Learning from Kitchen Catastrophes
While Wareheim embraces experimentation, he readily admits to a memorable cooking disaster that temporarily deterred him from a particular dish. His attempt to make tacos using a tortilla press for the first time, with guests arriving, proved to be a challenging experience. The masa was too wet, leading to a messy and unsuccessful outcome. Consequently, he decided to outsource his tortilla needs. "I live in L.A., so it’s easy to find great ones," he acknowledges. However, he is quick to qualify that this setback has not led to a permanent aversion. He firmly believes in the importance of confidence and the willingness to fail as integral parts of the learning process. "A big part of cooking is like, ‘I’m just going to f***ing try it!’" he declares.
Echoes of Childhood: Comfort in Nostalgic Flavors
Despite his mother’s tendency to limit processed foods, certain childhood treats hold a special place in Wareheim’s heart. Nutella, Triscuits, and Cinnamon Toast Crunch were occasional indulgences that now evoke significant comfort. He confesses to a particularly indulgent morning ritual when feeling grumpy: eating Cinnamon Toast Crunch with half-and-half, treating it as a dessert. His childhood also featured a peculiar fondness for A1 sauce, which he would consume in shots, describing the experience as a "big explosion." This early appreciation for bold flavors and sauces foreshadowed his later culinary explorations.
The Soundtrack to Supper: Curating the Dinner Party Ambiance
Wareheim possesses an extensive collection of playlists meticulously curated for various occasions, including specific selections for when guests arrive and for pizza-making sessions. The music he chooses often complements the food he is preparing. While cooking a rich bolognese sauce, he opts for Italian disco, creating a vibrant and energetic atmosphere. For traditional red sauce, or "nonna sauce," his playlist shifts to Italian American classics, drawing inspiration from the soundtracks of The Sopranos and the timeless melodies of Frank Sinatra. This intentional pairing of music and food enhances the overall dining experience, engaging multiple senses.
The Art of the Grand Gesture: Impressing Guests with Culinary Flair
Wareheim’s "entertaining flex" focuses on elevating the details, transforming ordinary elements into extraordinary experiences. He meticulously polishes multiple types of glassware, ensuring each beverage is served in its appropriate vessel. For instance, he insists on serving amaro in a special glass from Modena, Italy, presented on a vintage tray. This attention to detail extends to warming bread for cheese platters, a simple yet impactful step that significantly enhances the texture and flavor. "It’s the little things and extra steps that make every element an experience," he emphasizes.
A Culinary Pilgrimage: The Meal That Transcended Expectations
The dining experience at Sawada in Tokyo stands out as a meal so profound that Wareheim would readily travel across the globe to relive it. This intimate restaurant, run by a husband-and-wife team, centers around a mesmerizing display of slowly burning embers. The chefs’ mastery of ventilation ensures that the ambient smoke does not overpower the dining area. A particularly memorable moment involves the preparation of chutoro, a prized cut of tuna. The chef meticulously sears the fish over coals on an antique grate right at the table, imparting a subtle kiss of caramelization without heating the delicate flesh. Wareheim describes this experience as "so f***ing nuts. It’s so cool!" The meal culminates with a personal touch: each of the six diners receives a hand-painted napkin to take home as a memento. The emotional impact of this extraordinary meal was so profound that Wareheim and his dining companions were moved to tears on the street afterward, collectively marveling at the sheer specialness of the experience. This highlights Wareheim’s appreciation for meals that engage not only the palate but also the heart and soul, creating lasting memories through exceptional food and thoughtful presentation.
