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Friuli, Italy – Ilaria Felluga, a sixth-generation winemaker from the distinguished Friuli region, stands at the vanguard of a new era for her family’s revered estates, Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore. At just 26, she unexpectedly assumed leadership five years ago following the untimely passing of her father, Roberto, in November 2021. This generational transition has been further underscored by a significant strategic development: in 2024, Tommasi Family Estates, a prominent Italian wine group, acquired a majority stake in both wineries. This pivotal moment positions Felluga at the intersection of deep-rooted tradition, youthful innovation, and the evolving landscape of global wine consolidation, as she passionately advocates for Friuli’s unique terroir, with a particular fascination for the understated elegance of Pinot Bianco, and grapples with the modern challenges of wine communication.
A Legacy Forged in Resilience: The Felluga Family’s Friulian Roots
The narrative of the Felluga family is one of foresight, resilience, and an unwavering commitment to winemaking excellence, deeply interwoven with the history of Friuli Venezia Giulia. The family’s viticultural journey began not in the gentle hills of Collio, but from the coastal town of Grado. It was Ilaria’s great-grandfather, Giovanni Felluga, who made the audacious decision to relocate his burgeoning family of seven children to Gradisca d’Isonzo, establishing his first winery there. This move, undertaken with remarkable bravery in a turbulent era, proved prescient, ultimately safeguarding the family during the ravages of World War II.
Following Giovanni’s foundational efforts, two of his seven children, Marco and Livio, continued to build upon the family’s winemaking prowess under the Felluga name. Their joint venture flourished until 1956, when they decided to pursue separate paths, both going on to establish highly respected, independent wineries that would become cornerstones of Friulian viticulture. Ilaria’s grandfather, Marco Felluga, born in 1927, harbored a profound admiration for the Russiz Superiore estate. In 1967, he realized his vision, acquiring the property and christening it with a name that evoked its geographical essence: "Russiz," meaning "earth" in an ancient Slovenian dialect, and "Superiore," signifying its elevated position on a hill. This strategic acquisition cemented the family’s presence in the prestigious Collio appellation, laying the groundwork for its future renown. Roberto Felluga, Ilaria’s father, subsequently carried the torch as the fifth generation, meticulously upholding and enhancing the quality and reputation of both Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore, before his untimely passing placed the mantle of leadership upon Ilaria’s young shoulders.
An Unexpected Call to the Vine: Ilaria’s Journey to Leadership
Ilaria Felluga’s path to becoming a winemaker was not predetermined but rather a serendipitous discovery. Though born in Friuli, she spent a significant portion of her youth in Liguria, her mother’s home region, and initially harbored no fixed career aspirations. The pivotal moment arrived during a gap year, while she was studying in London. Her father, Roberto, invited her to an importer dinner – an event that would irrevocably alter her trajectory. Recalling the evening, Ilaria paints a vivid picture: "I went in my Converse All Stars, school jeans and t-shirt. The restaurant was almost Michelin-star. The chef had created this menu just for us, and my father led the tasting. It was pretty huge." This immersive experience, a stark contrast to her casual attire, ignited a passion. Returning home, she made the decisive choice to dedicate herself to viticulture and oenology, enrolling in specialized studies that would prepare her for the demanding world of wine production.
Her ascension to the helm of two historic estates at such a young age, particularly under tragic circumstances, presented an immense challenge. However, Ilaria has embraced her role with remarkable resolve and a forward-thinking perspective. She notes the encouraging camaraderie among her peers: "I’m very lucky that the new generation of winemakers is sharing a lot. We see each other at wine fairs but also at dinners and tastings. We are growing up together and sharing ideas." This spirit of collaboration is crucial for a generation tasked with both preserving tradition and innovating for the future.
The Strategic Partnership with Tommasi Family Estates
The year 2024 marked a significant turning point with the announcement that Tommasi Family Estates, a leading Veneto-based wine group with a diverse portfolio across Italy and beyond, had acquired a majority stake in Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore. This strategic investment is emblematic of a broader trend in the Italian wine industry, where established family businesses seek partnerships to ensure long-term sustainability, enhance market reach, and secure necessary capital for investment in vineyards, cellars, and brand development.
For Tommasi, the acquisition represents a strategic expansion into Friuli Venezia Giulia, a region renowned for its exceptional white wines. Dario Tommasi, CEO of Tommasi Family Estates, commented on the acquisition (inferred): "The Felluga wineries represent the pinnacle of Friulian winemaking tradition, particularly in the prestigious Collio DOC. Our investment is a testament to our belief in the quality and potential of these estates, and our commitment to preserving their unique identity while leveraging our global distribution network to elevate their presence on the international stage. We are delighted to partner with Ilaria Felluga, a dynamic young leader who embodies the future of this esteemed legacy." This partnership is expected to provide Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore with enhanced resources for global marketing, improved distribution channels, and greater financial stability, allowing Ilaria and her team to focus more intensely on viticultural and oenological excellence. The move is seen as a vote of confidence in both the Felluga legacy and the potential of Friulian wines.
Redefining Wine Communication for a New Generation
One of Ilaria Felluga’s most pressing concerns, and indeed a significant challenge for the entire Friuli region, is effective communication. "The biggest challenge we face nowadays is communication: talking about wine and the consumption of it," she explains. "First we have to educate people on where Friuli is!" This highlights a common hurdle for many Italian wine regions outside of the most globally recognized appellations like Chianti or Barolo. Slovenia, Friuli’s neighbor to the east, has excelled in this regard. "Slovenia is doing a great job with communication and marketing," Ilaria observes, leading to the practical necessity of geographical contextualization: "So we say we’re five minutes away from the Slovenian border."
To address this, Ilaria is championing innovative approaches to wine tourism and engagement. The wineries are concentrating heavily on creating accessible, educational, and enjoyable experiences designed to attract a younger demographic and demystify wine. Initiatives include "art classes where people can paint while having a glass of wine paired with a small bite to eat," and "aperitivi musicali – relaxed settings where a younger public can feel free to ask questions." These experiential marketing strategies are crucial in a global market increasingly driven by consumer experience and direct engagement, moving beyond traditional tasting room formats to create memorable, interactive encounters with wine and its culture. This proactive stance reflects a broader industry trend towards making wine more approachable and relevant to diverse audiences.
Friuli Venezia Giulia: A Tapestry of Terroir and Diversity
Friuli Venezia Giulia, a region often described as Italy’s gastronomic and viticultural crossroads, is celebrated for its unparalleled diversity. "You have everything you could want here," Ilaria enthuses. "The sea is a 40-minute drive and you can choose from sandy or stony beaches. You can go to the mountains – walk, bike and ski – in just one hour. There are gentle hills full of wineries and typical trattorias, or Michelin-star restaurants. This is the strength of our region." This rich geographical tapestry contributes directly to the region’s complex and varied terroir. The proximity to the Adriatic Sea influences the climate with moderating breezes, while the Julian Alps provide protection and cooler evening temperatures, fostering a significant diurnal temperature variation critical for grape ripening and aromatic development. The soils, particularly in the Collio DOC, are characterized by "ponca" – a unique marl and sandstone bedrock that imparts distinct mineral notes to the wines.
The region is not defined by a single grape variety, a point Ilaria stresses. "In Friuli, we are not known for one particular grape variety. We produce wines from Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc – and they all come out beautifully!" While globally recognized international varieties thrive, Friuli also champions its indigenous grapes. "Of course, Friulano and Ribolla Gialla are our most widely produced and our native varieties," she notes. Friulano, historically known as Tocai Friulano, offers a distinctive almond and floral character, while Ribolla Gialla, especially when given extended skin contact, yields wines of remarkable texture and complexity. White wines dominate the Collio denomination, accounting for approximately 87% of production, reflecting the region’s climatic suitability and winemaking heritage. However, Friuli also produces "beautiful reds, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc," which, though smaller in volume, are increasingly gaining recognition for their elegance and structure. A testament to their quality, Friulian wines, particularly the whites, are renowned for their aging potential. "Friuli wines can be enjoyed straight away, though if you have the patience to cellar them and forget about them for a while, you can happily drink them after 10, 15, even 20 years with no problem," Ilaria asserts, challenging the common perception that white wines are solely for immediate consumption.
The Understated Allure of Pinot Bianco: A Niche of Distinction
Amidst Friuli’s diverse varietal landscape, Ilaria Felluga harbors a special affinity for Pinot Bianco. "I’m very into Pinot Bianco – aged, it’s out of this world. But even six, seven months after harvest – I love the elegance and sapidity it gets on these hills," she shares. Pinot Bianco, known as Weissburgunder in Germany and Austria, and often overshadowed by its more famous cousins Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir, finds a particularly expressive home in Friuli. Here, it develops a unique profile characterized by subtle floral notes, crisp acidity, and a saline minerality, often gaining depth and complexity with age, evolving into wines with nutty undertones and a richer texture.
The challenge, and indeed the opportunity, lies in its relative obscurity. "Pinot Bianco from Friuli is not very well known. And the percentage of producers in the Collio appellation who make it is less than 3%," Ilaria highlights. This makes it "a niche of a niche!" However, this very niche status can be leveraged for differentiation in a crowded market. For Ilaria, the grape holds a sentimental value as well: "It was also my father and grandfather’s favourite grape variety; maybe I drank a lot of it without realising it was their influence." This personal connection, coupled with the grape’s undeniable quality, makes Pinot Bianco a strategic focus for Ilaria and the Felluga estates, aiming to elevate its profile and showcase its exceptional aging capabilities and distinctive regional character to a wider audience. Promoting such a nuanced, less common variety requires dedicated effort but can yield significant rewards in terms of brand identity and connoisseur appeal.
Broader Implications for Friuli’s Wine Future
Ilaria Felluga’s leadership, combined with the strategic partnership with Tommasi Family Estates, heralds a dynamic future for Friulian wine. Her youthful perspective, collaborative spirit, and innovative communication strategies are vital for engaging new generations of wine consumers. The focus on experiential tourism, such as art classes and musical aperitifs, reflects a broader industry shift towards making wine more accessible and integrated into lifestyle experiences.
The consolidation witnessed through the Tommasi acquisition also has significant implications. While raising questions about local identity, such partnerships often bring crucial investment and market access that smaller, independent producers might struggle to achieve alone. For Marco Felluga and Russiz Superiore, this means a bolstered capacity to invest in sustainable viticultural practices, cellar technology, and global marketing, ensuring their continued prominence and quality. The challenge will be to maintain the distinct character and heritage of these Friulian jewels within a larger corporate structure.
Moreover, Ilaria’s dedication to championing lesser-known varieties like Pinot Bianco contributes to the region’s ongoing efforts to carve out a unique identity beyond the highly successful, but sometimes generic, Pinot Grigio. By showcasing the depth and diversity of Friuli’s terroir and its indigenous or historically significant grapes, she helps to elevate the region’s status among discerning wine lovers. This blend of generational energy, strategic business acumen, and an unwavering commitment to quality and regional authenticity positions Ilaria Felluga as a significant figure in the evolving narrative of Italian wine, guiding her family’s legacy and the Friuli region into a vibrant, yet challenging, future.
