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On a blustery Saturday in early February, the Port of Newport, Oregon, typically bustling with commercial activity, hosted a poignant gathering that underscored a critical challenge facing coastal communities nationwide. Amidst the cries of sea lions and the relentless Oregon wind, a small but resolute group listened intently to Taunette Dixon, a multi-generational fisher and co-founder of Newport Fishermen’s Wives, as she articulated the severe pressures confronting independent fishers. Her family’s vessel, the Tauny Ann, provided a stark backdrop to a conversation about escalating operational costs, including increasingly prohibitive fishing and crabbing permits, which threaten the viability of small commercial operations and pave the way for larger industrial entities. "The fishing industry has taken a lot of hits in the last few years, and most of them hit the small guys the hardest," Dixon stated, her voice rising above the din of dock work. "We’re seeing more and more families not being able to afford to maintain a small commercial fishing vessel, leading to more large businesses taking over." This dockside discussion was a core component of the Blue Line, a unique coastal field trip designed by the Winter Waters initiative to reconnect consumers with the often-overlooked bounty of Oregon’s "blue economy" – a movement advocating for sustainable, local seafood and the resilient communities that bring it from ocean to plate.
The Genesis of Winter Waters: A Community Responds to Crisis
The Winter Waters initiative emerged from a shared concern among three visionary women about the fragility of local food systems, particularly in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. Kristen Penner, a seasoned seafood value chain strategist; Alanna Kieffer, a pioneering seaweed farmer behind Shifting Tides; and Rachelle Hacmac, a specialist in sustainable seafood marketing, found common ground in their passion for Oregon’s marine resources. Their initial meeting in the fall of 2022, fueled by a mutual love for seaweed, quickly evolved into a broader discussion about the systemic vulnerabilities exposed by global disruptions. "Covid happened and our supply chains fell apart," Penner recounted, highlighting the moment of clarity. "It was a wake-up call. [We were] thinking, ‘Why is it so hard to get this amazing, nutrient-dense protein that’s literally in our backyards?’" This paradox, where abundant local resources struggled to reach local plates, ignited their collective resolve to build a more resilient and transparent seafood economy.
Their vision for Winter Waters was to create a multifaceted platform that would bridge the knowledge gap between ocean and consumer, celebrate the diversity of Oregon’s seafood, and economically empower the local fishing communities. The timing was strategic: focusing on the traditionally slower winter months (February 1 to March 1) to inject vital economic activity into coastal towns and allow chefs more creative freedom. The initiative’s first series in February 2023 was a modest but impactful start, featuring 10 events centered largely around seaweed as a culinary ingredient. This inaugural success demonstrated a clear public appetite for such connections, laying the groundwork for the expanded, comprehensive program seen today.
Unpacking the Seafood Paradox: Data and Disconnect
Despite Oregon’s impressive 362 miles of coastline and a rich marine ecosystem teeming with species like albacore tuna, salmon, pink shrimp, Dungeness crab, and bottom-feeding fish such as flounder and lingcod, the vast majority of seafood consumed within the state, even in its coastal communities, is imported. A stark 2024 report by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) revealed that 80 percent of seafood consumed nationally originates from abroad, primarily from countries like Canada, Chile, India, Indonesia, and Vietnam. This national trend is even more pronounced in Oregon. A 2022 study commissioned by the Oregon Coast Visitors Association (OCVA) delivered a "big shock" to many, as Laura Anderson, founder of Local Ocean Seafoods, described it: a staggering 90 percent of seafood sold and consumed on the Oregon coast itself was imported, while the state’s abundant catches were being exported elsewhere. "The assumption is, you come to the coast and you’re eating fish from the coast—and that’s just not true in many cases," Anderson emphasized.
This disconnect carries significant implications, both environmental and economic. Transporting seafood across continents incurs a substantial carbon footprint, contributing to global greenhouse gas emissions. Penner articulated this concern, stating, "It just doesn’t make sense that we ship seafood overseas—that’s a pretty big carbon footprint. Buying local is one way to support the people in our communities that are doing the really amazing hard work of feeding us." Economically, the reliance on imports undermines local industries, diverting potential revenue from independent fishers and coastal businesses. The struggle to maintain small commercial fishing vessels, as highlighted by Taunette Dixon, is a direct consequence of market dynamics that often favor large-scale, globally sourced operations over local, small-boat fisheries. This situation jeopardizes not only livelihoods but also a way of life deeply intertwined with Oregon’s coastal identity.
Winter Waters in Action: Education, Engagement, and Experience
Now in its fourth year, Winter Waters has evolved into a comprehensive series offering approximately two dozen distinct experiences from February 1 to March 1. The initiative’s growth reflects its success in bridging the gap between consumers and sustainable seafood sources. In the previous year, over 2,600 people registered, predominantly locals, but also drawing attendees from as far as the East Coast and Iceland, indicating a broader interest in its model.
The series kicks off with the Blue Foods Forum, a two-day, solutions-oriented conference tailored for industry experts, fostering dialogue and innovation within the seafood sector. However, the majority of Winter Waters events are open to the public, attracting a surprisingly diverse audience ranging from veteran fishermen and marine biology students to seafood-centric chefs, nature-inspired artists, and curious non-professionals. This broad appeal underscores the universal desire for greater connectivity within food systems. "There’s a hunger for greater connectivity in our food systems," Penner noted. "Sometimes the answer you need is just one person away, a matter of one degree of separation. Winter Waters is about connecting those dots."
The self-guided Blue Line coastal field trip, for which 192 tickets were registered this year, exemplifies this philosophy. Participants embark on an immersive journey, speaking directly with producers and gaining profound insights into their work. Stops include the Oregon Coast Aquarium, where volunteers are engaged in vital kelp forest reforestation efforts; the Hatfield Marine Science Center, offering a glimpse into innovative oyster farming; the Pacific Maritime Heritage Center, providing a forum for direct conversations with fishers about the state of their industry; and the Central Coast Food Web (CCFW), where attendees can even hold wriggling sea urchins destined for uni production. These direct interactions are crucial for demystifying the seafood supply chain and fostering appreciation for the labor and expertise involved.
Navigating Supply Chain Challenges: Innovation on the Coast
Despite the abundant bounty of Oregon’s productive waters, which support about 1,200 commercial fishers operating approximately 800 vessels annually (2024 data from the Oregon Department of Employment), increasing in-state demand for locally caught seafood faces significant logistical and market hurdles. The highest concentration of fishing activity is in Lincoln County, home to Newport, where boats are typically crewed by one to four individuals, highlighting the prevalence of small-scale operations.
Alanna Kieffer aptly describes the rich marine environment: "People here never use the term ‘beach’—it’s always the ‘coast.’ Our water is cold and murky, and that’s because it is full of nutrients. It fuels all of this seafood: tuna, crab, shellfish, so much kelp." Yet, getting this nutrient-dense product from boat to plate, especially inland, is complex. The Oregon Coast is separated from major population centers like Portland by mountain ranges that often experience snow in winter, complicating transportation. Furthermore, the inherent variability of fishing makes consistent supply a challenge for restaurants. Laura Anderson of Local Ocean Seafoods, which sources directly from the Newport fleet, acknowledges, "Local Ocean buys direct from the fleet across the street, and it’s hard. I can’t imagine most seafood businesses maintaining relationships with dozens of different vessels, the timing, having to take their entire fish load." She explains that direct sourcing lacks the consistency in product and price that restaurants typically require. "You can’t just say, ‘Bring me 10 pounds of petrale sole on Tuesday and another 10 pounds on Friday.’ Sometimes they don’t catch the fish that they thought they were going to catch."
Local Ocean Seafoods has pioneered solutions to these challenges. Amber Morris, affectionately known as the "Fish Goddess," serves as the crucial liaison between the restaurant and its network of approximately 70 local fishermen, making daily trips to boats like the Tauny Ann to pick up the day’s catch. The restaurant’s menu, which proudly names its supplying vessels, adapts seasonally, offering daily specials based on availability. Crucially, Local Ocean advocates for and utilizes frozen fish to ensure year-round local sourcing. "Getting past the ‘fresh is better than frozen’ myth is a huge win for everyone," Anderson asserts, recommending this model to other establishments. "Higher quality, less food waste, more control—and more local."
Another vital innovation championed by Winter Waters is the development of seafood hubs. The Central Coast Food Web (CCFW), co-founded by Anderson and Penner in 2022, is a Newport-based nonprofit that serves as one of five such hubs in Oregon. CCFW provides a shared-use processing facility for small seafood and farm businesses, offering access to essential equipment like vacuum sealers and cold storage that individual fishers often lack. "Not every fisherman needs to have a vacuum sealer, and cold storage is usually very limited," Kieffer explained. Adjacent to CCFW, the Oregon Ocean Cluster’s ‘OMX’ (Oregon Mariculture Accelerator) project is developing an R&D mariculture farm for land-based seaweed cultivation and value-added products, further enhancing local capacity. These hubs are critical infrastructure for standardizing processing, reducing waste, and making local seafood more accessible and viable for both producers and consumers.
Championing Equity and Diversity in the Blue Economy
The Winter Waters founders are committed to fostering diversity and equity within the seafood industry, extending beyond the variety of fish caught to include the people who harvest and process it. There’s a persistent misconception that commercial fishing is an exclusively male domain. "There’s an assumption that it’s a male-dominated industry, but it really isn’t," says Rachelle Hacmac. Indeed, a 2024 report from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations indicates that women comprise 50 percent of the global seafood workforce. However, this global presence often belies a severe lack of representation in leadership roles, with recent research showing women holding as little as 4 percent of leadership positions. Furthermore, existing data collection often fails to account for individuals who identify beyond the gender binary, highlighting a systemic gap in understanding the true diversity of the workforce.
To address these disparities, the Winter Waters series this year included a pivotal conference in Newport titled "Women of the Water." Co-hosted by Julie Kuchepatov, founder of the Oregon-based global nonprofit Seafood and Gender Equality (SAGE), and Becca Williams, SAGE’s director of gender strategies, the event provided a critical platform for discussion and empowerment. "Our mission is to ensure that women and genderqueer folks are getting the recognition that they deserve for their contributions to the sector and that their voices are heard in spaces where decisions are made," Williams affirmed. The conference’s rapid sell-out and extensive waitlist, despite only 22 available spaces, vividly demonstrated the significant demand for such a gathering.
Discussions at "Women of the Water" delved into practical challenges and systemic inequities, such as the difficulty of finding fishing gear designed for female bodies and the imperative to improve safety protocols during multi-day expeditions where women might be the sole female crew member. Williams underscored the broader implications: "What is needed in the seafood sector right now is not too far off from what is needed generally—and that is an open heart toward questions like: How do we create policies and practices that really center wellbeing? In the workplace, how do we lead with a sense of compassion and support folks coming into jobs on boats being fully who they are?" Beyond the conference, Winter Waters actively promotes women’s contributions by purchasing and featuring products from local women-run seafood businesses, including Local Ocean and SueAnna Harrison’s Oregon’s Choice Tuna. The initiative also engages women chefs, like Portland-based U’ilaniku’ulei Vele and Maylin Chávez, for pop-up events and dinners, such as the Seafaring Speakeasy, further amplifying their voices and culinary talents.
Tangible Impact and Future Horizons: The Ripple Effect
The impact of Winter Waters extends far beyond its month-long duration. By design, the February timing provides a crucial economic boost to coastal restaurants and hotels during their typically slowest season. In 2025, Winter Waters events generated a significant $79,808 for participating food and beverage businesses along the Oregon coast, demonstrating its immediate economic value. Additionally, the initiative donated $6,235 to nonprofit partners such as the Oregon Kelp Alliance and FishHer, reinforcing its commitment to broader ecological and social well-being.
Beyond direct financial benefits, Winter Waters catalyzes innovation and inspires new ventures. Following a presentation by Iceland’s 100% Fish Project—an initiative focused on maximizing resource utilization and reducing waste—at the 2025 Blue Foods Forum, Laura Anderson was inspired to implement similar practices at Local Ocean. Her restaurant now experiments with less commonly requested fish parts, incorporating them into seafood broths and even creating fish-skin dog treats, available at their market. This commitment to a circular economy model reduces waste and adds value to every catch. The ripple effect was further evidenced when two other attendees, galvanized by the 100% Fish Project, founded Reclaim Cooperative in Hoskins, Oregon, a fish tannery dedicated to producing sustainable seafood leather goods from fish skins.
Looking ahead, Winter Waters, in partnership with the OCVA and the Oregon Ocean Cluster, is developing the Oregon Coast Seafood Trail, slated for launch later this year. This carefully curated route will highlight businesses committed to local sourcing, requiring participants to serve at least 50 percent local fish and shellfish. Hacmac envisions it as "an easily accessible online list for visitors and locals alike to find places that truly have local seafood." This initiative draws inspiration from successful models like the Local Catch Network, the Maine Oyster Trail, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch, and South Carolina’s Good Catch program, aiming to create a recognizable brand for Oregon’s sustainable seafood. The trail seeks to elevate establishments like Squatchsami in Lincoln City, whose co-owner Debbie Martin, according to Kieffer, aims "to get Atlantic cod off every fish and chips menu in Oregon," replacing it with local alternatives.
The founders of Winter Waters recognize that the challenges faced by Oregon’s working waterfronts are not unique. Many coastal communities globally grapple with similar issues in building robust local seafood economies. "We’re really excited about what the future holds," Penner enthuses, "especially as we dive deeper into what else is possible, connecting with a larger community to learn and share resources to accelerate this movement—not just here, but everywhere." By connecting people, fostering education, and championing equitable practices, Winter Waters is not just promoting seafood; it is cultivating a sustainable future for Oregon’s coastal communities and offering a replicable model for others to follow. The final events of this year’s Winter Waters series, including a crab picking demo in Gold Beach, a tour of Port Orford, a seaweed cyanotype class in Brookings, and several seafood-centric meals, offer further opportunities to engage with this vital movement.
