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Winemaker Manfred Ing, a South African native who has cultivated a global perspective on viticulture, stands at the forefront of innovation at Querciabella, a renowned family-owned estate in Tuscany. His journey from a vineyard-sparse KwaZulu Natal to the heart of Chianti Classico epitomizes a dedication to precision, sustainability, and the profound expression of terroir. Ing’s leadership since 2010 has propelled Querciabella to new heights, particularly in its commitment to organic and biodynamic farming and the development of site-specific wines that illuminate the multifaceted character of Sangiovese. This commitment to excellence will be showcased at the upcoming Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London, where Ing is slated to host an exclusive lunch and present Querciabella’s distinguished portfolio.
A Global Palate: Ing’s Formative Years and International Odyssey
Manfred Ing’s entry into the world of winemaking began far from the traditional vineyards of his birth. Despite growing up in KwaZulu Natal, a region not known for its viticulture, his roots in the Cape region and family ties to Italian heritage subtly guided him. Early childhood memories include swimming in the reservoirs of historic estates like La Motte in Franschhoek, a stark contrast to his later immersive experiences. His mother’s Sardinian lineage, where his grandfather once cultivated grapes, instilled an innate connection to the land and a deep appreciation for the role of food and wine in family life. This early exposure, coupled with a natural aptitude for science and mathematics, coalesced during a pivotal high school work experience at La Motte, solidifying his decision to pursue winemaking.
His formal education at Stellenbosch University, a prestigious institution for viticulture and oenology, laid a robust scientific foundation. However, Ing’s thirst for knowledge extended beyond academia. Post-graduation, he embarked on an extensive international journey, gaining practical experience across diverse winemaking landscapes. His vintages in the North Island of New Zealand exposed him to varied climates and viticultural practices, while his time in California’s Napa Valley offered insights into different market dynamics and stylistic approaches. This global immersion, a hallmark of many contemporary winemakers, provided him with a comprehensive understanding of both traditional and cutting-edge techniques, shaping his adaptable and nuanced approach to viticulture. This period of intense learning culminated in his appointment as winemaker at Querciabella in 2010, marking a significant milestone in his career and for the Tuscan estate.
Querciabella: A Beacon of Organic and Biodynamic Excellence
Querciabella, founded in 1974 by Giuseppe (Pepito) Castiglioni, has long been a pioneer in Tuscan winemaking, embracing organic practices decades before they became mainstream. Under Ing’s stewardship, this commitment has deepened, with the estate becoming fully biodynamic. This philosophy, extending beyond mere absence of chemicals, involves holistic vineyard management, viewing the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem. It incorporates astronomical influences and specific preparations to enhance soil vitality and vine health. Querciabella’s dedication to these principles is not merely ideological; it is seen as a means to achieve unparalleled purity and expression of terroir in their wines.
Ing’s winemaking philosophy at Querciabella is characterized by "maximum attention for minimal intervention." He emphasizes that while Mother Nature remains the ultimate arbiter, meticulous observation and proactive measures are paramount. "We don’t have any recipes," Ing states, highlighting the dynamic nature of winemaking. Each vintage presents unique challenges and opportunities, demanding adaptive strategies rather than rigid formulas. This approach, honed by working with mentors ranging from the scientifically rigorous François Naudé at L’Avenir to the artistically inclined Gordon Russell at Esk Valley, blends scientific understanding with intuitive artistry. The ability to diagnose and address issues through a deep understanding of wine chemistry, coupled with a creative vision for the final product, defines Ing’s method. This innovative spirit, championed by the open-minded Castiglioni family, respects tradition while constantly exploring new techniques to refine quality and character.
Elevating Chianti Classico: Terroir, Innovation, and Market Dynamics
The Chianti Classico region, one of Italy’s most historically significant wine zones, is currently experiencing a renaissance, driven by dedicated producers and the forward-thinking initiatives of its Consorzio. Ing notes a growing appreciation for the quality of Chianti Classico wines, attributing it to the dynamic leadership of the Consorzio, which has spearheaded crucial developments. The introduction of the Gran Selezione classification in 2014, designating wines from a single estate vineyard or a selection of the best grapes, represented a significant step in elevating the region’s top-tier offerings. More recently, the establishment of the Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGA) zones aims to further delineate specific geographical areas, enhancing the sense of place and allowing for greater transparency and consumer understanding of the diverse terroirs within Chianti Classico.
Querciabella’s commitment to site-specific wines, such as the Gran Selezione Greve 2021, directly aligns with these regional advancements. By focusing on distinct parcels within the historic Chianti Classico zone, Ing and his team are able to craft wines that articulate the nuanced expressions of Sangiovese from different soil types, altitudes, and microclimates. This approach not only showcases the incredible diversity within Chianti Classico but also reinforces the region’s position as a source of fine, age-worthy wines. The global market for premium Italian wines, particularly from established appellations like Chianti Classico, has seen steady growth, with consumers increasingly seeking wines that offer authenticity, traceability, and a strong sense of origin. Querciabella, with its biodynamic practices and terroir-driven philosophy, is well-positioned to capitalize on this trend, appealing to a sophisticated consumer base that values both quality and sustainability. The average price per bottle for premium Chianti Classico has increased by approximately 8% year-on-year over the past five years, reflecting a renewed confidence in the region’s potential and the success of initiatives like the Gran Selezione and UGA.
The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London: A Platform for Global Recognition
The Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London is a prestigious event in the international wine calendar, attracting connoisseurs, trade professionals, and enthusiasts eager to explore exceptional wines from around the globe. Querciabella’s prominent participation, with Manfred Ing hosting an intimate lunch alongside Decanter’s Italy editor, James Button, underscores the estate’s esteemed standing. The lunch offers attendees a unique opportunity to delve into Querciabella’s acclaimed portfolio, including the iconic white wine Batàr and site-specific Chianti Classico selections like the Gran Selezione Greve 2021. This direct engagement provides a valuable platform for Ing to share his insights into Querciabella’s winemaking philosophy and the nuances of Tuscan terroir.
Beyond the exclusive lunch, Querciabella wines will also be available for tasting at the event’s Grand Tasting on Saturday, November 7th. This broader exposure allows a wider audience to experience the quality and distinctiveness of their biodynamic expressions, further solidifying the brand’s presence in the competitive fine wine market. The Decanter events serve as crucial touchpoints for wineries, facilitating brand building, market feedback, and direct interaction with a highly engaged audience, ultimately contributing to the global discourse around fine wine.
Beyond the Vine: Culinary Adventures and Life’s Pleasures
Manfred Ing’s passion for wine is mirrored by his enthusiasm for cooking and culinary exploration. His kitchen, a testament to his global travels, boasts an impressive array of spices collected from around the world, particularly Asia. This culinary curiosity, influenced by Querciabella’s extensive market presence in Asia, has led him to embrace diverse cooking styles, from perfecting wok techniques – a recent birthday gift being an upgraded wok – to mastering the South African braai. "I was born next to a braai," he quips, highlighting his deep connection to flame-cooked food.
This adventurous approach to food extends to his philosophy on wine pairing. Ing challenges conventional wisdom, advocating for a more liberated approach, especially when dealing with diverse flavor profiles common in Asian cuisine. He notes that traditional sequential pairings often fall short at a Cantonese table where dishes arrive simultaneously. Instead, he encourages placing multiple wines on the table and allowing guests to discover their own harmonious combinations. He particularly champions Sangiovese’s versatility, even slightly chilled, praising its freshness, palate-cleansing acidity, and ability to complement various Asian flavors, from creamy Thai dishes to smoky Korean barbecue with kimchi. He also suggests bolder options like a spicy Syrah or Querciabella’s Camartina (Toscana IGT), which blends Cabernet’s spice with Sangiovese’s lift, for more robust pairings. This open-mindedness underscores a belief that personal enjoyment trumps rigid rules, echoing his innovative spirit in winemaking.
Tuscany Unveiled: A Winemaker’s Insider Guide
For visitors to Tuscany, Ing recommends venturing beyond the well-trodden paths to discover the region’s authentic charm. He advises exploring the myriad small roads that lead to hidden "borghi" (historic villages), where one can stumble upon charming bars and enotecas offering exquisite local flavors. He highlights Bar-Ucci in Volpaia as an example of a spot that captures the essence of its specific hill. The experience, however, necessitates a car to access these secluded gems.
His personal recommendations also include historic restaurants that offer both exceptional cuisine and breathtaking views. Ristoro di Lamole, located in the village where Ing resides, is lauded for its "absolutely magic" sunsets. In Panzano in Chianti, he points to Dario Cecchini’s Antica Macelleria Cecchini, famous for its beef and featured on Netflix’s "Chef’s Table," as well as Enoteca Baldi, which boasts a wine list rivaling top establishments in global culinary hubs. Ing’s sixteen years in Tuscany have continually revealed new discoveries, illustrating the region’s endless capacity to surprise and delight even its most seasoned residents.
Personal Cellar and Passions: A Life Beyond the Label
Ing maintains a personal wine cellar across continents, reflecting his sentimental connection to wines and experiences. In South Africa, he curates a collection of several hundred bottles, often acquiring older South African wines at auction with a friend. In Italy, he focuses on collecting newer vintages, which he patiently ages. His playful strategy of burying his most prized bottles under others to deter premature consumption highlights a common dilemma among wine lovers: the battle between patience and immediate gratification. He values the shared experience of opening a bottle with friends, preferring the memory of a wine enjoyed at its peak to one that has passed its prime in storage. "I’d rather have an empty bottle there and say, ‘remember when we drank that?’, than let a wine go past its best," he asserts.
Beyond wine and culinary pursuits, Ing embraces a range of hobbies that provide balance and creative outlets. Stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) serves as a meditative escape, allowing him to disconnect and immerse himself in nature, often being the first on the water at dawn to witness the sunrise over northern Italian lakes. His athletic past includes cricket in summer and rugby in winter during his time in New Zealand. Now, residing in the mountains of Tuscany, hiking and chasing his children on their bikes fill his active hours. His enduring passion for rugby, particularly for his home country, runs deep. A dedicated Springboks fan, he famously prioritized attending the 2023 World Cup final in Paris over sightseeing. His loyalty is unwavering, stating he would only support Italy against South Africa if one of his sons played for the Italian national team. These diverse interests underscore a life lived with passion and a holistic appreciation for nature, sport, and culture, all of which subtly inform his craft as a world-class winemaker.
Manfred Ing’s tenure at Querciabella is a testament to the power of a global perspective combined with a deep respect for local tradition and sustainable practices. His innovative spirit, precision in the cellar, and dedication to showcasing the authentic character of Chianti Classico are not only elevating Querciabella but also contributing significantly to the region’s burgeoning reputation for excellence. As he prepares to share his insights and wines at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter London, Ing stands as a compelling figure embodying the future of fine winemaking, where science meets art, and tradition embraces thoughtful innovation.
