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Chicago, a city synonymous with culinary innovation and a rich gastronomic history, is undergoing a profound evolution in its pizza landscape. While the iconic Deep Dish has long held court as the city’s most recognizable contribution to the global pizza canon, a vibrant and diverse scene has blossomed, asserting Chicago’s position as a truly multifaceted pizza capital. This dynamic shift is particularly evident in the national resurgence of Chicago Thin, also known as tavern-style pizza, which is currently enjoying a widespread moment of acclaim. This article delves into the diverse tapestry of Chicago’s pizza offerings, moving beyond the traditional narrative to explore six distinct pizzerias that are not only shaping local tastes but also contributing to the city’s reputation as a premier destination for pizza enthusiasts worldwide.
The Windy City’s journey to becoming a pizza powerhouse began in the early 20th century with Italian immigrants bringing their culinary traditions. While early establishments primarily focused on Neapolitan-style pies, the 1940s saw the birth of the Deep Dish, a robust, cheese-laden creation designed to be a hearty meal. However, concurrently, another style was quietly gaining traction in neighborhood taverns and bars: the Chicago Thin. Characterized by its cracker-thin crust, often cut into squares (known as "party cut" or "tavern cut"), and generous toppings spread almost to the edge, this style was designed for sharing among patrons enjoying drinks. It was practical, affordable, and incredibly satisfying, fostering a communal eating experience that resonated with Chicago’s working-class ethos.
Today, Chicago Thin is experiencing a significant national spotlight, hailed by food critics and enthusiasts alike for its crispy texture and balanced flavor profile, offering a refreshing contrast to the more indulgent Deep Dish. This renewed appreciation for tavern-style pizza, coupled with the proliferation of other regional and artisan styles, firmly establishes Chicago as a top-tier pizza city, capable of rivaling even the likes of New York City and Naples in its breadth and quality. The city’s pizzeria market is robust, contributing significantly to the local economy, with consumer spending on pizza showing consistent growth, reflecting the enduring popularity and versatility of this beloved dish. This expansion is not merely about new establishments but about a sophisticated culinary landscape where innovation meets tradition, driven by passionate entrepreneurs and chefs.
Our tour through Chicagoland’s diverse pizza scene highlights six establishments that exemplify this spirit of innovation, quality, and unique identity, offering a glimpse into what makes Chicago’s pizza culture tick.
Bungalow by Middle Brow: A Community Hub of Fermentation and Flavor
Located in the bustling Logan Square neighborhood, Bungalow by Middle Brow stands as a testament to multi-hyphenate culinary entrepreneurship. What began as a pop-up brewery conceived by Peter Ternes, his wife Polly Nevins, and Bryan Grohnke, has organically evolved into a comprehensive destination encompassing a brewery, winery, restaurant, and bakery. Housed within a charming brick façade building that once served as a camera shop, this establishment skillfully leverages multiple revenue streams to create a dynamic and engaging experience for its patrons.
The journey of Middle Brow from a temporary venture to a permanent fixture underscores a strategic vision for growth and community integration. Their expansion includes an offsite bakery that not only supplies fresh bread but also serves as a crucial commissary for their highly-regarded pizza dough, ensuring consistency and quality across their operations. Bungalow’s culinary philosophy centers around artisan sourdough pizza, celebrated for its complex flavors and chewy crust. However, demonstrating a keen understanding of local preferences and a desire for versatility, the restaurant ingeniously "flips the script" on Tuesdays, dedicating the evening to a special cracker-thin crust night. This weekly event taps into the burgeoning popularity of Chicago Thin, offering a familiar yet refined take on the classic tavern style.
Beyond the food and drink, Bungalow by Middle Brow is deeply committed to creating immersive, educational experiences. Peter Ternes emphasizes the importance of fostering an environment where guests can connect with the craft. A notable example is their "Dough Stretching Class," which not only teaches the art of pizza making but also integrates a guided wine tasting, elevating the culinary workshop into a holistic sensory journey. Furthermore, the "Pizza Play" program, held Tuesday through Thursday, invites children to sit at the pizza counter and craft their own pizzas, fostering a love for food and creativity from a young age. This blend of high-quality food, diverse offerings, and community-focused programming positions Bungalow as more than just a pizzeria; it’s a vibrant social and educational hub, reflecting a broader trend in the restaurant industry towards experiential dining.
Milly’s Pizza In The Pan: Mastering the Caramelized Crust
Milly’s Pizza In The Pan, with its two thriving locations in Old Town and Lakeview, represents a compelling narrative of resilience, culinary dedication, and rapid ascent in Chicago’s competitive pizza scene. Owner Robert Maleski initially launched Milly’s as a ghost kitchen during the challenging early days of the COVID-19 pandemic, a strategic move that allowed him to refine his product and build a loyal following before transitioning to a physical brick-and-mortar pizzeria in Old Town in 2021. This phased approach proved incredibly successful, laying the groundwork for what would become an internationally acclaimed pan pizza.
Maleski’s inspiration for Milly’s stemmed from the legendary pan pizza served at Burt’s Place in Morton Grove, a local institution known for its unique crust. However, Maleski didn’t merely replicate; he innovated, developing his own distinctive twist centered around a signature caramelized crust that has garnered widespread praise. The meticulous process behind this famous crust begins with a poolish, a pre-ferment made from a blend of bread flour and wheat flour, further infused with a subtle hint of pepper and aromatic herbs. The dough’s perfect rise is achieved through a patient, extended fermentation process, which contributes to its unique texture and depth of flavor. A crucial technique employed by Maleski involves blanketing the crust with sliced cheese, a deliberate choice that, as he explains, aids in achieving the perfectly balanced caramelization that defines Milly’s pizzas. This attention to detail and commitment to a unique culinary identity quickly propelled Milly’s beyond initial expectations, with daily pizza production skyrocketing from an anticipated 40-50 to significantly higher volumes.
Despite this explosive demand, Maleski has maintained a disciplined approach to operations, retaining his initial preorder system at both pizzerias. This reservation-based model serves multiple strategic purposes: it effectively manages the overwhelming demand, helps control operational costs by minimizing waste, and significantly reduces kitchen chaos, allowing the team to maintain quality and efficiency. Maleski’s philosophy emphasizes sustainable growth, focusing on optimizing current spaces and processes before considering further expansion. This measured approach ensures that Milly’s continues to deliver its exceptional product without compromising the integrity of its culinary vision, solidifying its reputation as a must-visit destination for pan pizza aficionados.
Professor Pizza: A Champion’s Eclectic Pizza Pantheon
Tony Scardino, a veteran world-champion pizza maker, has crafted Professor Pizza as a concept as vibrant and eclectic as his own personality. With two Chicago locations in Old Town and West Town, and an outpost in Boston, Professor Pizza offers a journey through seven distinct pizza styles, reflecting Scardino’s encyclopedic knowledge and passion for the craft. The recently opened West Town location is a true extension of Scardino’s interests, blending his love for comedy with a vintage-inspired ambiance. The interior is a curated collection of personal memorabilia and thrifty finds, creating a unique, lived-in atmosphere that immediately sets it apart.
Scardino’s menu is a masterclass in pizza diversity, catering to a wide array of preferences. While many pizzerias specialize in one or two styles, Professor Pizza proudly offers a comprehensive selection. The top three most popular styles are cracker thins (a nod to Chicago’s tavern style), New Yorks (classic thin-crust, foldable slices), and Grandmas (a rectangular, often rustic Sicilian-American style). These are closely followed by traditional Sicilians and the increasingly popular Detroits, known for their thick, airy crust and caramelized cheese edges. This breadth of offerings is a significant draw, attracting customers who appreciate the opportunity to explore different pizza traditions under one roof.
Behind the scenes, Scardino demonstrates how to efficiently manage such a complex menu. He has implemented highly efficient systems and well-defined kitchen stations, ensuring that despite the variety of styles, the production line flows smoothly. Each station is specialized, allowing his team to expertly handle the unique requirements of each pizza type, from dough preparation to oven management. This operational excellence is crucial for maintaining consistency and speed, especially in a high-volume setting. Scardino’s inferred philosophy is one of continuous learning and perfecting the art of pizza, ensuring that each style, whether a classic New York slice or a trending Detroit square, is executed with championship-level precision and passion. Professor Pizza is not just a restaurant; it’s a living museum of pizza, guided by a master craftsman.
Robert’s Pizza & Dough Co.: Waterside Elegance and Dough Obsession
Tucked beneath the gleaming skyscrapers of Streeterville, in a serene inlet off Lake Michigan, Robert’s Pizza & Dough Co. stands as a destination pizzeria that seamlessly blends upscale dining with neighborhood charm. Owners Robert Garvey and Dana Hokin meticulously transformed a 20th-century industrial storage room into a sprawling, elegant space that seats 280, fulfilling their vision for a sophisticated yet welcoming establishment. The interior design, inspired by Polaroids from a road trip the couple took in their 1966 Mustang convertible, imbues the restaurant with a sense of personal history and wanderlust.
Robert’s success is built upon a foundation of uncompromising standards, meticulous attention to dining experience details, and an almost insatiable focus on the dough. The pizzeria offers a large patio with captivating water views, enhancing the dining experience during warmer months. Innovatively, they also provide walk-up and boat-up carryout services, catering to both local residents and those enjoying Lake Michigan’s waters. This strategic location and thoughtful amenities contribute significantly to its allure as a destination.
The heart of Robert’s acclaimed artisan pizza lies in its dough, which undergoes a rigorous and extended fermentation process. This involves a 48- to 72-hour cold-ferment, followed by a long four-plus hour rise at room temperature. This painstaking process develops complex flavors and a superior texture, resulting in a thin-crust artisan pizza that has garnered international accolades. Robert Garvey’s expertise in dough science is evident in every bite, delivering a crust that is simultaneously crispy, chewy, and flavorful. The same chef-driven craft and commitment to quality extend beyond their pizzas to a full menu of thoughtfully prepared sandwiches, salads, soups, and appetizers, ensuring a cohesive and high-caliber culinary offering. Robert’s Pizza & Dough Co. exemplifies how a deep commitment to fundamental ingredients, combined with an exceptional dining environment and innovative service options, can create a truly memorable and successful culinary venture.
Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna: Fine Dining Meets Neighborhood Pizza
Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna, a relative newcomer to River North, boldly redefines the concept of a neighborhood pizzeria by infusing it with elements of fine dining. The lively space itself is a testament to exquisite design, featuring sophisticated table lighting, rich Mahogany wood accents, plush leather booths, and a beautifully crafted bar that commands attention. This meticulous attention to aesthetics creates an ambiance that is both stunning and inviting, setting a new standard for casual dining environments.
Beyond the main dining area, Zarella offers a unique, hidden gem: the taverna. Accessed through a discreet walk-in door in the basement, this dark and cozy area provides an intimate and exclusive experience, showcasing the restaurant’s versatility. Leading the culinary charge is Chef de Cuisine Katie Kelly, who operates under the mentorship of renowned chefs Chris Pandel and Lee Wolen. These culinary powerhouses are celebrated for their contributions to some of Chicago’s best restaurants, and their influence is palpable in Zarella’s elevated menu.
Zarella’s menu is concise yet impactful, focusing on quality over quantity. It features a curated selection of sharables, salads, large plates, and sweets, designed to complement their primary offering: pizza. The pizzeria serves two distinct styles – artisan and tavern – each executed with precision and flair. The menu boasts six chef-driven specialty pizza options, which highlight creative ingredient combinations and sophisticated flavor profiles, moving beyond traditional toppings. Kelly expresses the immense value she places on learning from Pandel and Wolen, emphasizing a collaborative environment where culinary excellence is continuously pursued. Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna embodies the growing trend of integrating high-caliber culinary artistry into the seemingly simple realm of pizza, elevating the dining experience and appealing to a discerning clientele seeking both comfort and sophistication.
ZaZa’s Pizzeria/Nemec Brothers: New York Spirit in the Windy City
Brothers Brett and Chadd Nemec have made a significant mark on the Chicagoland pizza scene with ZaZa’s Pizzeria, a concept meticulously designed to emulate the authentic look, feel, and taste of a quintessential New York pizzeria. Their entrepreneurial journey began with the opening of their first ZaZa’s pizza shop in 2021, quickly followed by a second location in 2023. That same year, demonstrating a strategic vision for growth and brand diversification, the brothers launched Nemec Brothers Pizzeria, a full-service spin-off that offers a more extensive dining experience compared to ZaZa’s quick-serve model.
A distinguishing feature across both brands is the prominent display of local art murals, which not only enhance the aesthetic appeal of their establishments but also foster a sense of community connection. During a visit to ZaZa’s Lakeview location, Brett Nemec shared insights into their responsive approach to customer feedback and market demands. For instance, customer enthusiasm for their Grandma pie prompted the brothers to significantly "level up" its recipe and preparation, transforming it into a standout offering. Furthermore, they have strategically adjusted their slice business to better suit the specific demographics and foot traffic of each neighborhood market, opting to narrow slice availability to weekends at certain locations where demand is concentrated. This agile strategy allows them to optimize operations and cater more effectively to their diverse customer base.
The Nemec brothers’ venture underscores several key aspects of modern pizzeria operations: a clear vision for brand identity, strategic expansion through differentiated concepts, and a keen responsiveness to customer preferences. By bringing a taste of New York pizza to Chicago, while also adapting to local nuances and evolving their offerings, ZaZa’s Pizzeria and Nemec Brothers are carving out a distinct and successful niche, contributing to the rich tapestry of pizza styles available across the Windy City. Their inferred philosophy centers on delivering authentic flavors with operational flexibility and a strong connection to the communities they serve.
Broader Implications and Chicago’s Enduring Pizza Legacy
The exploration of these six distinct pizzerias underscores a pivotal moment in Chicago’s culinary history. The city is not merely resting on the laurels of its Deep Dish; it is actively innovating, diversifying, and embracing a global lexicon of pizza styles. This dynamic evolution solidifies Chicago’s position as a top-tier pizza city, capable of rivaling other renowned pizza hubs in terms of quality, variety, and culinary creativity.
The economic implications of this vibrant pizza scene are substantial. Pizzerias contribute significantly to local economies through job creation, sourcing of ingredients, and attracting culinary tourism. The growth of establishments like Milly’s, Professor Pizza, and Robert’s, along with the strategic expansion of ZaZa’s, demonstrates a healthy and competitive market that encourages innovation. Furthermore, the trend towards experiential dining, as seen at Bungalow by Middle Brow with its classes and community programs, indicates a shift in consumer expectations, where food is part of a larger, immersive experience. The rise of chef-driven concepts like Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna showcases how culinary boundaries are being pushed, elevating a seemingly simple dish to fine dining standards.
While challenges such as intense competition, rising ingredient costs, and labor shortages persist within the restaurant industry, Chicago’s pizza entrepreneurs continue to thrive through adaptation, specialization, and an unwavering commitment to quality. The national attention on Chicago Thin highlights a broader appreciation for regional American pizza styles and a growing consumer desire for authentic, diverse options beyond mainstream offerings. Looking ahead, the future of pizza in Chicago promises continued innovation, potentially introducing new fusion concepts, sustainable practices, and further refinement of existing styles. The Windy City’s pizza scene is a living, breathing entity, constantly evolving and reinforcing its legacy not just as a city that invented Deep Dish, but as a global leader in the art and craft of pizza making.
